Haida Gwaii - The Queen Charlotte Islands

Beth explores the old village site of Skedans

Photos of Haida Gwaii North

Click here to view photos of Charlotte City and Haida Gwaii's north island: http://www.flickr.com/photos/39357204@N04/sets/72157621945997078/


Photos of Haida Gwaii South

Click here to view lots of photos of our trip south to Gwaii Haanas Park: http://www.flickr.com/photos/39357204@N04/sets/72157621821529155/



Adventure to Haida Gwaii

It was time for the BIG trip across the famed Hecate Strait. It has a reputation for being a difficult crossing due to its very shallow waters – 60’ for much of the way across. It lived up to its reputation for our crossing. The waves were short and steep and the wind built from a pleasant 15 kt to a steady 25-27 kt from the NW with an occasional big wave breaking over the side of the boat and into the cockpit. This was my first experience with large waves and I must admit it was daunting to see a wall of water coming down onto the boat. The wind was just ahead of the beam so the waves were hitting us broadside. Our route from the northern tip of Stephens Island (Squatterie Bay- a local fisherman’s anchorage) to Queen Charlotte City was 80 nautical miles. The crossing took 13 hours. We left in fog and cloudy skies but when we were a few miles off Skidegate Inlet, the entrance to our anchorage, the skies cleared and the sun came out and we knew we had finally arrived! It was a wonderful feeling sailing into beautiful Bearskin Bay. I had flown to the Queen Charlottes last year for work and could hardly imagine sailing here but we had done it! The San Charistoval Mountains in the distance had a wonderful glow from the evening sun, the water sparkled and we were tired but very content!

We spent a few days in Bearskin Bay, relaxing, exploring, and visiting with other cruisers. One day we rented a car from “Rustic Rentals” and drove north up Graham Island past Tlell, Port Clements and finally Massett. We watched the sports fisherman at Masset clean their catch of salmon and halibut and we drove the eerie dirt road to Tow Hill. North Beach is an amazing site, over 70 miles long stretching out to Rose Spit. We walked for miles and hardly covered a fraction of the length of the beach. Most people drive their cars on the beach (not allowed by our rental car company). We watched crab fisherman standing in the shallow surf in hip waders snatching crabs with big nets! The next day we bought a few more provisions, paid bills online and enjoyed a visit and a drink in the cockpit with “Swift Current", a Sabre 45 that arrived in the anchorage. We had met Howard and Lynn back in the Broughtons and it was nice to run into them again.

Last March I had purchased passes worth about $100 per person to the Gwaii Haanas National Park located in the southern half of the Queen Charlotte Islands on Moresby Island. Gwaii Haanas means “Place of Wonder”. Before we could enter the park we had to attend an orientation session at the Haida Heritage Center in Skidegate. This is a beautiful new center built as a longhouse with a museum and a “Bill Reid learning centre” for young Haida artists. Gwaii Haanas is often referred to as the Galapagos of the north due to its remote location and the existence of many birds and wildlife not found anywhere else. The Haida have lived here in Haida Gwaii for over 10,000 years. In the 1800’s after the arrival of Europeans this unique civilization was almost lost due to a smallpox epidemic. With the formation of the park in 1987 there was a huge effort to preserve this special place for generations to come. Watchman sites are at many of the ancient Haida villages including Skedans, Tanu, Windy Bay, Hotsprings Island and S'Gwang Gwaay. The knowledgeable guides at the sites are usually descendants of Haida from that village. The highlight of our visit to these islands was definitely learning about the Haida culture and its people.

We were lucky to have 10 beautiful sunny days in Gwaii Haanas. The locals said it was the best weather they had had since the 1980’s! Since there is no fuel available in the park, we sailed everywhere we could – upwind, downwind - in light air and strong winds. When we did have to use the engine we motored at only 1800 – 2000 RPM’s in an effort to conserve our fuel. Norm had filled up 3 extra jerry cans of diesel for reserve which we had standing by. There are many lovely anchorages all down the eastern coast of Moresby Island and this is the route we chose to follow.

We explored Cumshewa Inlet and the deserted Haida village site here. Skedans was the next village. This is one of only 2 sites with standing poles. Most villages, including Skedans, had an island out in front which was a burial island. We sailed past this island after our visit to view the sea lions and birds and then enjoyed a lovely light air spinnaker run into Thurston Harbour where we anchored for the night. We went for an early morning kayak and saw racoons feasting on mussels at the water’s edge at low tide. Deer grazed in the meadows and oyster catchers chirped at each other as they also enjoyed their low tide breakfast. Kayaking is a wonderful way to get close to wildlife for photo opportunities and we love exploring anchorages this way. There aren’t a lot of hiking trails in Gwaii Haanas so the kayaks provide a great form of exercise.

Tanu is the site where Bill Reid was laid to rest. We visited his headstone and toured the remains of the ancient longhouses. Sean, our guide, was very knowledgeable. The weather was hot and sunny in Echo Harbour where we stayed for the night. We even went swimming after a vigorous kayak. There is a hidden lagoon next to the anchorage that leads to a waterfall. Our friends on “Swift Current” had moved on but that evening as we sat in the cockpit we watched a very pretty boat arrive. The name was “Osprey” and it belonged to Elsie and Steve Hulsizer. Elsie wrote the book “Voyages to Windward” which I devoured last year when we sailed to windward up the west coast of Vancouver Island. We kayaked over to say hello and ask Elsie to sign our book and invited them aboard Sarah Jean for a seafood dinner. What a delight it was to meet them.

We filled up our water tanks at Freshwater Bay where there is a hose running from a stream. A prawn boat pulled in behind us and while we were chatting to them I asked them if they had any extra prawns for sale. The captain suggested a trade and asked if we had any “spirits” on board. So we traded an extra bottle we had for 50 fresh prawns. A fair trade I would say! It was another brilliant blue sky day and after an easy upwind sail we enjoyed a soak in the best “spa” on the west coast at Hot Springs Island. There are 3 different hot pools to choose from and of course we tried them all. One in particular sits on the edge of the ocean and we soaked and baked in the sun. It felt like heaven. That evening we literally collapsed in our V-berth for a deep sleep. We have slept so well on the boat and have only had 2 windy nights aboard. The wind always seems to die at night making for restful sleeps.

We awoke to fog the next day with visibility only ¼ mile but we pushed off for Windy Bay, the next village site. We were greeted by Al and Gladys, the watchmen who welcomed us into their home. Gladys was baking bread and pies which I observed with great interest. I had successfully made bread aboard the boat this summer but I quizzed Gladys for her tips. She also hand weaves hats made from cedar bark and teaches the Haida language. Al took us for a walk through the old growth forest which included a 1000 year old Sitka Spruce that takes 15 or more people to surround it holding hands. As we were leaving to head back to our boat in our dinghy Gladys gave us an extra pie crust! What a treat! I had apples on board so that night I produced a pie in the galley oven!

We sailed upwind out of Juan Perez Sound with the windvane working excellently and hunkered down in Bag Harbour for the next 2 nights as the rain set in. I quilted postcards and Norm installed our new electronic active radar reflector. We emerged from down below to check out the harbour and spotted what looked like killer whales. We donned our foulies and climbed in the dinghy so Norm could photograph them. After observing them and checking our reference book we learned they were Risso Dolphins. We spent a couple of hours watching these fascinating creatures that looked like small killer whales. The rain finally stopped the next day and so we headed off in our dinghy to explore Burnaby Narrows. The water is very clear and there is an amazing amount of sealife in a small area due to the tidal currents. Norm took a photo of “mussel” beach.

Rose Harbour is at the southern tip of Gwaii Haanas and is an old whaling station. There are 3 private homes here, the only ones in the park. We anchored for the night and then headed west the next day for S’Gang Gwaay, the world heritage site on Anthony Island. This was our last village site and the most remote. It is located on the southwest side of Haida Gwaii. The fog was so thick as we motored over that we couldn’t see a boat that was just behind us also going to see the village. Thank goodness for radar! We found the recommended bay to anchor just south of the village and tried to avoid the numerous kelp beds and rocks. We radioed in on the VHF to request permission to come ashore as is the custom at the watchman sites. Our guide came down to the beach to meet us as we approached in our dinghy. The fog was lifting slightly as we approached this ancient village with its 17 standing totem poles. It was perhaps fitting that it was a typical foggy Charlotte day. Our young guide explained the layout of the village, the carvings on the poles and told stories of the fierce chief of this village. She had learned all she could as she wished to reclaim her Haida heritage.

We reluctantly left S’Gang Gwaay or Ninstints as it is also called (named after the chief), and headed up Louscoome Bay in the sunshine searching for a quiet anchorage for the night as we prepared to leave Haida Gwaii. We had called the Coast Guard for an extended forecast and it looked good: 15-20 KT winds from the NW so we decided we would go the next day. We had some work to do first to prepare for our overnight passage to Winter Harbour on Vancouver Island. It is 180 miles and our longest yet and our first overnight passage on Sarah Jean II. We had to deflate and roll up our dinghy and store it under the boom. The life raft is stored in the cockpit locker for easy access. I checked our ditch bag to ensure it had everything in the event of an emergency. Norm installed our jacklines to attach our tethers when going onto the foredeck. We plotted our course on the chart and got out seasickness meds so they would be handy. I prepared turkey chilli, fresh buns and muffins for easy meals for the passage. And we called our contacts on shore, Bob & Janey to let them know we will soon be leaving in the morning and with our ETA for Winter Harbour. We are ready! So long Haida Gwaii and thanks for the memories!